Liwan

The opening is bright and sharp, with grapefruit and bergamot around juicy pineapple and a prickle of pink pepper. Rosemary adds a herbal edge as the heart unfolds, and ylang ylang and osmanthus bring a soft floral warmth over caramel. Underneath, vetiver and patchouli give an earthy depth, while leather, amber and musk carry the long, darker finish.

Rated at eight to ten hours, it holds its shape well into the night. Its dark, leathery character belongs to autumn and winter, and to evenings above all: a dinner, a concert, a late celebration. One or two sprays are enough, since the leather and amber base builds gradually on skin and clothing over the hours.